top of page

Photos shown are a representation of the appearance of components in a kit with options.

Actual product & finish may vary for your application.

1981-1998 Ford Sterling 3/4 /1 ton Rear Disc Brake Kit

1981-1998 Ford Sterling 3/4 /1 ton Rear Disc Brake Kit



Our Standard Kit Does Both Sides of the Axle, and Includes:

  • Brackets, Grade 8 Mounting Hardware, and 12 3/4" Vented Rotors.


Kits With Calipers Does Both Sides of the Axle, they include the above

  • Kits that are ordered with the parking brake style calipers also include the flexible stainless steel brake lines, and cable housing extension tubes.
  • Kits with non-parking brake calipers come with flexible stainless steel brake lines.


Kit Options Allow You to Upgrade Your Kit to Include:

  • Calipers with Pads in Raw or Powder Coated Finish
  • Black Powder, Red Powder coated brackets.
  • Performance Dimpled and Slotted Rotors


Disc/ Disc Applications.

  • IF you have ABS you shouldn’t need to do anything else providing the ABS system is working properly.
  • Applications PRE-ABS running Disc/Disc brakes. The kit works with the stock master cylinders, if you are wanting a better pedal feel; the master cylinder needs to be changed out for a master cylinder made for disc/disc applications.
  • We sell these master cylinders please see the link on this page.
  • To verify you are ordering the correct kit, measure your drum backing plate bolt hole spacing center to center on either your spindle/axle housing flange and compare to our spacing diagram.
  • Fits most 16" Single Disc Brake Style wheel and larger.
  • 10.25 Full Float.
  • Only Fits 8 x 6 1/2" Wheel Lug Pattern. 
  • When converting from drum to disk. You will need to cut and re-flair your existing hard brake line or bend new ones. These are not supplied.
  • The slip over rotors allow you to install your hub without the extra weight of the rotor. The Sterling axle did not have the drums on the back side of the hub. Putting a rotor on the back side of the hub the studs will be held away from the hub by the thickness of the rotor and the studs will not have much knurl into the hub and might turn when the wheel is removed. These are a couple of reasons we use slip over rotors.
bottom of page